Anything over 1 metre (36 inches) may cause problems. However the data link uses TTL level pulses which will be affected by long wire lengths. Longer wire lengths are possible between the two kits. Connect using the 2-pole screw terminal plugs supplied with each K108 kit.
Use the short length 2-wire cable supplied to connect input 4 of each kit together, with the ‘+’ terminals connected to each other and the ‘-’ terminals connected to each other. The data link uses Input 4 of each original kit. The two K108 kits need to be connected together via a data link.
Insert two wire links either soldered on the bottom of the PCB underneath the IC7 socket or jumper-ed as shown: Add the Master panel and Relays 1-8 to one K108, and the Slave panels with Relays 9-16 to the other. You will have to unsolder and remove the LED bezels and reset switch. Remove the front and rear panels of each K108.
Replace the existing firmware in K108 with the two supplied, identical K108dual firmware chips. I went ahead and spent the extra $20 on the pre-assembled kits because i just didn't feel like putting them together.however you can get them in kit form and assemble them yourself for that "Look mom.i did it all by myself!" kind of feeling that's so important here. Wire - preferably 2 different colors for easy setup (i use 22 gauge solid core for my positive and i think somewhere around 18 gauge stranded for the negative.why? because that's what I've got) Plywood - to make a raised base inside your box Fireworks - this is up to you.but I'm using 2 "dirty dozen" mortar sets and 2 "Texas rattlesnakes" Model rocket igniters - one per firework (i used Estes igniters on V1.0 but I'll be using the Aerotech first fire juniors for V2.0 as they are more reliable and easier to insert into the fireworks themselves) Note: please don't make fun of the overcomplexity that's going to show up in this project.i like over complex.i know i can do things with less steps.but why would i? 1 - Large box (large enough to house the finished contraption I'm using an ammo box i had lying around) 2 - Serial Isolated I/O Module (You can get these pre-assembled or in kit form from Here) 1 - Upgrade kit to join the two I/O modules together (i got mine from the same place as the module) 2 inch Schedule 80 PVC pipe cut into 6 - 8 inch lengths (I'll be using 24 8 inch pieces so that's about 16 feet of pipe total) 2 inch PVC end caps (I'm going to try to use screw type caps so that i can load the thing easier.i used rounded end caps on the first project.but when fired.the PVC pipe actually flies out of the device.which isn't very controllable.i think with the screw caps I'll be able to eliminate this) Bolts - 2 per firework to be launched (I'm firing a total of 26 devices so I'll need 52) Wing Nuts - one per bolt used (I'll need 52) Screws - Lots OF SCREWS.
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